Chachapoyas Photos - Bald White Guy

Discovering Archaeological Treasures in Peru

The images below are from a 1999 expedition into the remote Chachapoyas region of northern Peru when I joined a trip with archaeologist Dr Peter Lerche to learn more about the region's history. The trip arose from my interest in Latin American history and archaeology which developed while preparing material for the Telecom Amazon Adventure schools project. Tombs that we located during this expedition were subsequently revisited by Peter, and featured in the September 2000 issue of National Geographic. My story and photos about the trip were published in Destinations travel magazine back in New Zealand.

The Chachapoya (Cloud People) lived in the cloud forests of the Andes, bordering on the Amazon rainforest. Although conquered by the Inca, they were fiercely independent - mounting several large rebellions. They were one of the subjugated tribes which aligned themselves with the Spaniards - providing much of the manpower and local knowledge leading to the final defeat of the Inca Empire. Sadly, they fared even worse under the Spaniards - becoming extinct through slavery, forced relocation, and introduced disease. Their remote strongholds were de-populated and returned to forest.

A remarkable discovery was made in 1997, at a location called Laguna de los Condores (Lake of the Condors) - which archaeologists became aware of when a large number of artefacts suddenly flooded the local black market. Investigations traced them back to a remote cliffside ruin overlooking the lake - and a cache of about 200 mummies. The sheltered cliffside provided a dry microclimate protecting the mummies from the humidity of the nearby rainforest … at least until the looters and their machetes arrived. A major operation was then made to evacuate the remaining mummies to a hastily arranged facility in the nearby town of Leimebamba.

Outside the Chachapoya fortress of Kuelap

Internal view inside the walled fortress of Kuelap

Thought to be carved face of the moon on Tintero astrology tower in Kuelap

Local woman and child. Remote mountains outside Chachapoyas.

On archaeological expedition into the mountains of Chachapoyas

Mule train, crossing through the mountains in Chachapoyas

Early morning at Orphedon, remote mountain settlement in Chachapoyas

Packing mules for travel. Orphedon, Chachapoyas.

Expedition team after climb up to a cliffside tomb known as Casa da Curaca (House of the Chief)

Dr. Peter Lerche holds 500 year old ropes left over from a mummy bundle taken by looters.

River crossing. Archaeological expedition in Chachapoyas

Ancient Chachapoya burial platform and glyphs at Osiris

Headed into the forest at a location called Chequillo

Chachapoya ruins hidden in the forest at Chequillo

Looking down on the village of Atuen. Location of warm water springs once used by the Inca

Kids looking at a Polaroid I took of them

Stone heads. These are common amongst the walls at Chachapoya ruins

Dr. Peter Lerche cutting vegetation away from Chachapoya lintel at La Joya.

Local children in Leimebamba, at a festival celebrating Chachapoya heritage

Children at festival celebrating Chachapoya heritage in Leimebamba

Me and my favorite hawaiian shirt. After our expedition. Hotel in Leimebamba

Transport out. It was a step up from the rough Peruvian Air Force An-32 military transport plane I arrived in

Banner image: Shutterstock/Yolka

Andrew Mercer

I'm a Business Intelligence and Data Warehousing consultant based in Brisbane, Australia. I've consulted on or managed several large BI systems in New Zealand, Australia and Latin America.

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